Checklist for March and April

Cattleya

Though March is, in many parts of the country, still a cold and very windy month, the becoming longer days and warmer temperatures caused by increased light are harbingers of the coming change of season that you have been waiting a long time for. Some of the best standard cattleyas of the year will be in full bloom, or will be blossoming soon. The last of the winter-flowering hybrids will take part the earliest of the spring hybrids in a wonderful display. Be on the alert for aging sheaths that need removal. The moisture they trap can lead to bud rot, if these yellowing sheaths are not removed. Careful removal of the sheath will permit the buds to develop, although they will need extra support. Changing light conditions can also be a trouble in March and April. An extremly bright day, especially immediately following a rain, can lead to sunburn of the leave if shading is not applied to properly. There can still be periods of not bright and cloudy days where spikes can weakened owing to the lower light. Lengthening days will mean increased metabolic rates necessitating increased water and fertilizer. The plants will indicate needs by becoming dry more rapidly, which means more often watering and fertilizing.

With the passing of the season for winter bloomers, and the beginning of the season for spring bloom, it is also the time to look out for plants that will need potting after they bloom. The best time to repot in the winter is immediately after blooming. In most cases, they will be ready to grow roots, so they will root right into fresh mix with little or no setback, if potted at this time.

Cymbidium

Plants should be placing on a very impressive show this time of year. Adapt all staking and twist-ties and look out for aphids, slugs and snails. Provide sufficient water because flowering strains the plants. When new growths appear later, increase the nitrogen level in the fertilizer. If a plant is loo healthy but not be blooming, try increasing the light during the next growing season. The number-one reason for no flowers is lack of light.

Dendrobium (Australian)

Now, these hard-cane dendrobiums will be at their flowering peak. It is quite common to see a specimen of this type in an orchid show boasting 1,000 flowers. The secret with this group is to breed primarily from Dendrobium kingianum and Dendrobium speciosum and to provide sufficient water, fertilizer and light during the growing season.

Lycaste

This genus of excellent orchids will be coming to an end of its flowering season. Soon you will see the beginning of new root growth, which is an superb time to repot into fresh media. When new growth appears, give sufficient fertilizer and water. An indication of good culture is an increase in the size of psuedobulbs with each successive year.

Miltoniopsis

This is to be a sign of the beginning of the flowering season. Awesome colors will amaze the grower over upcoming few months. Please prepare your plants to look its best by staking spikes (if needed) and cleaning off the older yellow leave. Do not miss the great fragrance as the flowers open out..

Paphiopedilum

March is the beginning of the season of heaviest potting for lady’s-slipper orchids. Nevertheless, it is a month where the volume of plants needing care is still little. It is an excellent month to take the time to focus your work on your paphiopedilums before the pressure of other potting prevents your doing the thorough job you should. Look at each plant: Is it clean of dead and dying leave? Is it weed free? Does it need potting? Is it in spike? Does it have an insect trouble? Cleaning and restaging your paphs is one of the most satisfying tasks of the orchid year. Cleaned and potted paphiopedilums look happy.

The summer-blooming types will be letting you see the first of their buds in March and April. keep a lookout for the buds, as well as any insect pests which may have found their way into the crowns of your plants. It is particularly difficult to clean mealybugs, especially, once they have become well established in the plant. Better to get to them before they get a good toehold.

Increasing light levels should give emerging spikes the strength they need to grow straight and strong. Do not be too worrying to stake the spikes, because if they are staked too early, the flowers may develop a “nodding” stance, where the back will not stand upright. Let them, and stake after the flower has hardened for the best carriage, particularly on the hybrids with fairieanum background, if the spikes seem to develop at an angle.

Phalaenopsis

Mostly in the country we can say that, March is the peak blooming month, especially for the phalaenopsis. the staking needs to be carefully looked after, so that when the flowers will be displayed at an orchid show — even those intended for your home will look best if rightly staked. One of the most attractive parts of phalaenopsis spikes is the way they attractively arched. If not staked rightly, the spike will lack this attractiveness and will not be as giving pleasure. Most growers prefer to have the final support just below the first flower, permiting maximum support, without sacrificing the beauty of the arching spike.

Rapid-growing spikes and open flowers put extra demands on the plant. Careful watching and checking a watering and feeding will give the plants the energy they require to give their best floral display. Also, remember that the lengthening days will also increase the frequency at which plants need water.

Be careful of the invasion of sucking pests that accompany the flowering season.  Spikes and flowers and  are among the favorite targets of the scales and mealybugs. Be on looking out for their presence, often indicated by the appearance of sooty mould occuring from the exudate of the bugs, and deal with before flowers or buds are too complicated. The chemical treatment may damage or abort them, if flowers and buds are too far along.

Pleurothallids

Members in this large and increasingly popular group will be looking their best now. The next few months provide a great time to divide if needed or repot into fresh mix, If plants are not in flower. Taking care of these tasks now will allow sufficient time for your plants to become established before the hot weather comes.