Checklist for May and June

Cattleya

The last of the spring-flowering types — those that flower from a mature hard pseudobulb — will be ending, while the first summer-blooming types will be showing buds on their rapidly growing, soft pseudobulbs. Both may need potting, when signaled by deteriorating mix, this month. The spring bloomers present no problems, as you will be dealing with fully developed, well-hardened pseudobulbs. They will be ready to root on the mature front pseudobulb and will establish soon. The summer bloomers, will be brittle and may be in bud. Nevertheless, experienced growers know that unless potted now, they may not root later, because this type tends to be seasonal in its rooting behavior. Stake the lead growth to avoid breakage. If the plants have not been right acclimatized, May can still offer some changing light environments that can lead to burning of the leave . Allow them to increase their tolerance to higher light gradually. Changing light and temperatures can also be the source of some frustration when trying to establish when plants need watering. While cattleyas will be entering into a period of rapid growth beginning this month, they have still not built up sufficient momentum to be significantly slowed by your missing a day or two of watering because of dark weather. As always, it is safer to err on the dry side than on the wet. It is important, although, particularly to the summer bloomers. Too much shade will cause rapidly developing clusters of flowers arranged on a stem to droop unattractively.

Paphiopedilum

The Paphiopedilum Maudiae types will be well into their season now, so a careful eye should be used toward staking. However, do not be too worried to stake. If staked too quickly, Many of this type will develop nodding flowers that do not face the observer. It is better to allow the flowers to become mature naturally, then support the spike right below the ovary for the best orchid display. This is particularly common in Paphiopedilum fairrieanum-derived hybrids. If you have to do something when you first see the coming out spikes, just put the stake in the pot next to the spiking growth. Not only will this help you, but also you will be able to see where the spikes are, so you can continue to pay attention to their development. The multifloral types will be entering their most active growth phase, so lots of light, water and fertilizer are required to mature their large growths. Many will be spiking in the next couple of months, so be on the lookout for the coming out inflorescences. These may benefit from earlier staking than most, as the inflorescences grow so quickly in some cases that they can be quite soft. Again, the best support is right below the ovary of the first flower. This will allow the most natural performance of the blooms.

Phalaenopsis

Except for the latest-spiking plants, all phalaenopsis should be ready for potting or already potted. Because phalaenopsis are tropical plants, they tend to be seasonal in their rooting behavior. The crucial point for potting is when new roots emerge from the base of the plant. This is completely the best time to repot a phalaenopsis. Phalaenopsis potted at the right point in their growth cycle will reestablish almost at once, with fresh roots growing into the new medium nearly continuous. As soon as the flush of new root growth is seen, start regular watering and fertilizing to make maximum use of the very important growing season. Do not get over-exuberant with your watering, although, allowing water to splash between plants. This can be a source of infection for both pathogens carried by water and viral contamination. Phalaenopsis are much more affected by virus than was previously thought. Take additional care to protect your collection from bacterial and viral problems, which you can accomplish by keeping a clean growing area.